Wednesday, December 10, 2003

Negril, Jamaica

I had been to Negril, Jamaica before...for two weeks in 1976, and I have aways thought it is one of the most amazing places on Earth. Back then, the world hadn't discovered the place yet...it was natural, unspoiled, and very laid back. Negril had a seven mile stretch of pure white sand beach, with calm 86 degree turquoise water protected by an off-shore coral reef...and very few people. There were no buildings over two stories in height, but lots of thatched huts, housing small businesses. There were more burros than cars back then, and the closest pay phone was in Sav-La-Mar, a town 22 miles away. It was like travelling back in time. The people were amazingly friendly, the pot was very cheap, (and some of the very best in the world, if you knew how get the locals to give up the good stuff), and it was everywhere on the island. There was no crime at that time, except for Kingston, on the opposite coast, 255 miles away. The best weather each year began around Christmas...so I was in the right place at the right time. I rented a five room villa, the same one I had rented in 1976...with vaulted ceilings, marble floors, full kitchen, no phones or TV, and in front, a veranda about 100 ft. from the water. A maid and a cook came with the villa, as part of the "package", and the beach was private and guarded. I always rented a motorcycle while we were there, because getting around on a bike was the way to go...they were cheaper to rent, and much better on gas, which was expensive...plus, it never rained there in January..and temperatures ranged from 90 in the day to about 73 at night...perfect motorcycle weather. I spent a lot of time smoking lambsbread,(very high-grade Jamaican sinsemilla)  writing songs, swimming, walking on the beach, eating fruits, and lobster and fresh fish caught by the locals..still flopping around in the canoes as they came in. The exchange rate there was 17 to 1..so $1000 U.S. was $17,000 Jamaican...and things there cost roughly 3 times as much...not 17 times as much, so the money went really far. We dined in nice restaurants, did whatever we wanted to, and Patti and I had a great time. It is a very romantic place, and after three weeks together, Patti and I had grown a lot closer. As in the past, I had brought a guitar, and wrote five new songs, and I remember thinking that they were very good. While we were there, a news event that was so world-changing occurred...and even in the laid-back, away-from-the-rest-of-the-world environment that was Jamaica...this news was almost unbelievable. John Lennon had been shot dead in New York City by a lunatic. The news spread like wildfire. Tourists and native Jamaicans alike were profoundly affected by the news. People were in a state of shock. I think it was only at that moment, for the very first time, did I realize just how powerful and far-reaching the effect of rock music had on people everywhere...and even in a place like Jamaica...a world away from everything...the sense of loss, and the feeling that history had just been irrevocably changed was obvious. People were very angry. Many were crying. It was as if a prophet had been struck down. Even in such a tranquil place...the news shook people to the core. I had purposely rented a place with no phones, radio, or TV...so I knew I'd have to wait to hear more about this...but everyone was very saddened by this news. I was grateful I had been in a place that resembled paradise when I heard it...it seemed to soften the blow a little. I did the best I could to try to enjoy the rest of my time there...and Jamaica is so beautiful and quiet that I was able to do that...and I was also able to put down some thoughts, and write some new Avalanche music. Going back to Jamaica  became an annual event for me...it was always very healing...and a place for me to clean out...and to focus and write...and as we got ready to return home...I was feeling really great about getting back to work... 

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